Dutch cooking

A country so much characterized by its Calvinist heritage and the generally perfectly matching grey cloudy weather surely can't have a fancy cuisine, and it hasn't.
Superficially this is only illustrated by the traditional Dutch home cooked meal: potatoes, accompanied by a piece of meat and boiled vegetables. The whole lot of it preferably covered with heaps of gravy. Herbs and spices appear to be obsolete altogether, which makes the food pretty bland.

However, times are changing. Partly due to the influx of citizens from former colonies, and the Mediterranean, partly due to the formation of the global village these traditional patterns are changing.
Nowadays the traditional Dutch meal is gradually being replaced by foods and spices from all over the world.
So, these days one can find African, Arabian, Chinese, Indian, Indonesian, Italian and Spanish food on the Dutch dinner tables. And if not, then certainly there will be restaurants serving these kinds of food within the vicinity.

Contents:
1. Dairy products 2. Breakfast 3. Lunch 4. Dinnertime 5. an ABC of
Dutch cuisine


Dairy products

The famed Dutch appetite for dairy products has resulted in some name calling by our neighbors in the east: Käsekopf.
Still, it cannot be denied that Dutch citizens seem determined to help getting rid of the surplus in dairy stocks that came in the wake of European Community 's farmer aid. Not to much prevail, and so precious nutrients go wasted.
Milk.
Milk comes in many forms: (buttermilk, full fat milk, half fat -, diet -),
and not to forget its derivative: yoghurt:
consumers can be very picky, so the factories/creameries have decided to launch an all out attack on the yoghurt market, which resulted in all kinds of fancy flavors that seem to change, like all things natural, with the season. So one can expect to find biologically produced-, with fruit bits (sometimes very little bits), turning left or right (duh????) etc.
Cheese.
At this point we can expect there are many kinds of cheese available on the Dutch market, and indeed there are: (Gouda, Edammer, Komijne [cumin cheese], belegen [matured], jong belegen [medium matured], graskaas [very young cheese] etc.)
Butter and derivatives:
Margarine, diet margarine, liquid margarine (can you imagine?), vla (custard), pudding etc.

Looking at this list we can easily assume that a Dutch meal hasn't been a meal if no dairy product has been put on the table. One of the possible reasons for the Dutch being so tall is said to be based on this consumption. (Well, it could be a secondary thing, as farmers tend to add growth hormones in cattle fodder).

Breakfast

The Dutch stay business like throughout their lives, and one can tell this also by the way the average Dutch tends to use his breakfast. A typical Dutch breakfast consists of coffee or tea, bread (full corn, most times) with cheese, jam or hagelslag (chocolate hail, which are tiny chocolate flakes), raisin buns, and dairy products (naturally).

Lunch

See breakfast, but this usually is consumed off the home premises.

Dinnertime!

Dinnertime is averagely between 17.30h and 18.30h, but as a result of changing traditional roles (the rise of yuppies and dinkies) in the household, dinnertime is gradually shifting towards 19.00h.
Dinnertime is dinnertime, which means this time remains rather fixed.
Dropping in and being invited to share the meal still may be an exception. Most times, you'll get an invitation to come over for dinner. Be sure to be in time, for often the meal will be ready for serving by the time you announce your presence at the residence you're invited.

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An ABC of Dutch cuisine. Try it!
Bleeeech


1.Advocaat
(Dutch egg nogg
2. Appelflappen
(apple fritters)
3. Boterkoek
(butter cake)
4. Drop
(liquorice)
5. Kroket
(croquet)
6. Oliebollen
(dough balls)
7. Ontbijtkoek
(ginger bread)
8. Pannenkoeken
(pancakes)
9. Patat frites
(french fries)
10. Pepernoten 11. Poffertjes 12. Snert
(pea soup)
13. Speculaas
(a cookie)
14. Stamppot
(hotch potch)
15. Stroopwafels
(treacle wafers)
16. Taai Taai
17. Vlaai
(Limburg pie)
18. Zoute haring
(salted herring)

Advocaat (Dutch egg nog)

This is an alcoholic beverage, but unlike the familiar american egg nog not reserved for the festive season solely. In fact, it is considered a 'grown-up' type of dessert.

Ingredients (12 p.):
10 eggs
½ level teaspoon salt
275 g. (8,84 oz tr) sugar
4 dl. (0.7 pints) cognac (brandy)
½ level teaspoon vanilla extract

Preparation:
Separate the yoke from the whites and beat the yolk with the salt and sugar until the mixture is thick and creamy. Add the cognac and beat again. Put the mixture in a saucepan. Heat gently, whisking all the time until the advocaat is warm (don't let it boil) and thick. Remove the pan from the stove and add the vanilla extract. Stir. Pour into a jug.
Advocaat is served in a glass and eaten with a teaspoon. It could be topped with whipped cream, like we Dutch like to do. Very yummy.
Coming back to my first remark: advocaat is nothing like the american eggnog.

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Appelflap (Apple folds)

'Appelflappen' is one of the deep fried treats traditionally served at New Year's Eve. Appelflappen are highly preferred by those who don't like to stuff themselves with the greasy 'Oliebollen' (Dutch dough buns), the truly traditional deep fried treat for new year's Eve (later).

Ingredients (12 pieces):
250 grams flour, 125 grams cold, firm butter, 1 deciliter water, a pinch of salt. For the filling : 4 to 5 apples, approximately 4 tablespoons of sugar, 30 gr. currents, 30 gr. raisins, some cinnamon. For brushing : 1 egg yoke or a mix of milk and sugar.

Preparation:
Prepare or buy (short crust) pastry. Roll the pastry not too thinly and cut out large circles (6 in/15cm). Prepare the filling by cutting dice out of the pealed apples and mix them with the sugar, cinnamon, well drained previously washed currants and raisins. Do NOT prepare the filling in advance as the sugar will melt making the pastry too damp. Heap some filling on each circle of pastry and fold the edges over it, gluing the edges down with water.Brush each apple fold with the egg yoke, which has been slightly beaten in a table spoon of water or use the mix of milk and sugar. Put the folds on a buttered baking tray and bake them in the middle of a hot oven in approx. 10 minutes until golden brown and well cooked. Eat them not too long afterwards as the crust will soon become limp because of the moist filling.

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Boterkoek (Butter cake)

Butter cake. Now this is the kind of cake that really likes settle down in the susceptible areas of the human body as it mainly consists of butter. Still, when prepared in the proper way, it's is a very nice, and satisfying kind of cake/cookie.

Ingredients:
For the dough : 2 cups of flour, 1 cup of butter (do not use margarine), 1 cup (caster) sugar, 1 small egg, pinch of salt.

For the filling : 2 cups blanched almonds, quarter cup sugar, 1 small egg, grated peel of half a lemon.

Preparation:
Knead all the ingredients for the dough into a firm ball. Divide the dough in two and press one half into a buttered pie pan of 1 inch (2½ cm) deep and 8 inch (20 cm) diameter. Make the filling.

Grind the blanched almonds, mix with sugar, beaten egg and lemon peel and grind once more. Place this almond paste on top of the dough layer and press the other half on top of both. Bake in moderate (350 degree Fahrenheit = 175 degrees Centigrade) oven until golden brown and done, about one hour. Remove from the pan and cool on wire rack. Cut in wedges or diamonds

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Drop

I wouldn't try to make this at home.
A liquorice that is made of Arabian gum, some herbs, sugar and salt. This is very popular among the Dutch, and is eaten in large quantities. Some substances are said to be mildly addictive. Foreigners (tourists), when confronted with the rubber like sweet often consider the combination of taste and substance disgusting.

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Kroket

A kroket (croquet or rissole) is a deep fried snack roll stuffed with some sort of stew that, according to the manufacturers, contains meat. It is available in all snack-bars (fast food vendors) and in most company canteens. The are particularly nice when they're spiced up with some mustard.

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Oliebollen (Dutch dough balls)

Oliebollen (Dutch Dough Balls, or so) are the traditional treat served at New Year's Eve. At New Year's Eve friends or family gather to celebrate the coming of the new year by playing games, watching television and or getting loaded (when one is younger). One can be certain to find a huge bowl/tray filled with oliebollen. One caution: since they are very greasy don't eat to many of them, for they don't mix with beer (yeast) and can very well make you very sick.

Ingredients:
500 grams of flour, 25 grams yeast, 3 ½ deciliter milk, 250 grams (in total) of currants and raisins, some salt, if preferred also 2 apples oil or baking fat for deep frying.

Preparation:
Put the flower in a bowl, make in the center a depression and pour the yeast, which has been dissolved with a bit of lukewarm milk, into the hole. Add the remaining milk and stir. Stir the washed currants and raisins (and, sliced into small dice, apples) through the mix. Beat the mass to a smooth and airy mix and leave it, covered with a damp cloth (e.g. tea towel) to rise in a warm place (i.e. on top of a bowl with warm water) for about three quarters of an hour to one hour. Use two table spoons or an ice scoop to shape balls and slide them into the hot oil or fat. The temperature of the oil should be such that it is only just giving off vapor. Deep fry the oliebollen quickly until brown and thoroughly done. They should be soft and not oil soaked inside. Remove them from the oil with a skimmer or similar tool, leave for a short while to leak on absorbent paper and serve them with powder sugar.

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Ontbijtkoek

Literally this would translate with breakfast biscuit or cook. Yet it is neither used strictly at breakfast nor it's a biscuit. It resembles much more a heavy kind of cake and the taste can differ by the ingredients used.

Ingredients:
2 cups of self raising flour, 1/2 (half) cup dark brown sugar (demerara sugar), 1/3 (one third) cup molasses or treacle, 1 cup of milk, 1 tsp. each of ground cloves, cinnamon and ginger, 1/2 (half) tsp. grated nutmeg, pinch of salt.

Preparation:
Combine all the ingredients to a smooth paste. Butter an oblong 8" x 3" cake tin, fill with dough and bake for about one hour in a slow oven (300 degrees F). When cooked, allow to cool and keep in a tin or in the bread-bin for 24 hours before serving.

This cake keeps moist when put in the bread-bin with the bread. The Dutch serve it with their tea time, buttered or on a slice of bread for breakfast.

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Pancakes

Dutch pancakes are as big as a dinner plate and in the old days even bigger (12"/30cm). Nowadays you may find such big pancakes on the menu of a restaurant, but at home we make them the dinner plate size. They are either eaten as a savory (with smoked sausage or bacon and cheese) or as a sweet (plain with golden (or maple) syrup or with apples, or sugar). In Holland there are many 'pancake restaurants' which serve pancakes only. Some even offering over 20 different types from pancakes with cherries and whipped cream or with chopped mush- rooms, bacon and assorted vegetables.
Pancakes are best when made with yeast and they should be served piping hot. Use two skillets when available. Keep the pancakes hot on steam, or covered in the oven. Cold pancakes are not so nice to eat, but many Dutch people do keep leftovers in the fridge as a snack. The following recipe is a luxury one, for special occasions, as many eggs are used during preparation (instead of yeast).

Ingredients:
For one large pancake : 1 cup flour, salt, 2 large eggs or 3 medium (fills ½ cup when beaten), 1 cup milk, at least ¼ cup butter or margarine. (multiply the above recipe with the number of pancakes you wish to make).

Preparation:
Put the flour and salt in a bowl, make a well in the middle and add the beaten eggs. Mix to a smooth batter. Add the rest of the milk. Melt half the butter in a heavy skillet. Pour the batter into it. Turn these pancakes frequently, each time adding some butter. They should then become golden brown and crisp at the sides.

Gewone Pannenkoeken (Regular Pancakes). This recipe makes 4 big pancakes.
Ingredients:
4 cups of flour (or 4 cups of proprietary pancake mix if available), salt, 1 cake yeast (60 grams), 4 cups lukewarm milk, butter or margarine.

Ingredients (12 p.):
Put the flour and the salt in a bowl. Make a depression in the center. Add the diluted (with a little milk) yeast. Add 2 cups of milk and mix to a smooth batter. Add the rest of the milk. Leave to rise for three quarters of an hour. Heat enough butter in a heavy skillet. Pour in part of the butter and fry the pancake on both sides. You can toss the pancake in the air for turning, if you like. Try outs with someone standing by to catch them is advisable if this is your first attempt ! :-) Otherwise use a spatula. Keep them hot in the warming drawer and serve with sugar or molasses, golden syrup or treacle.

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Patat frites (French fries)

Better known as French fries, or chips. It may not be an exclusively Dutch food, but the way it is consumed differs from many other countries. First of all, the chips themselves are considerably thicker, secondly, like John Travolta said in 'Pulp Fiction': "the Dutch drown their fries in mayonnaise".

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Pepernoten (ginger-nuts)

This treat is connected with very old Dutch folklore:
Sinterklaasfeest:
Long ago there was a bishop from Myra in Turkey (hence the red robe), and this man was very concerned about the fate of some children and taking action to take care of them. This eventually developed into the folklore that this bishop made it a habit to give all the children that have been behaving properly in the past year (Mind you! Behaving properly!)some present when he is celebrating his birthday. This bishop, would now age more than 800 hundred years, but that's beside the point. The name of this man was St. Nicholas (Sint Nikolaas) of Myra, supposedly living in Spain in present day.
Dutch colonists took this folklore with them when they settled in the Americas and thus evolving this St. Nicholas into Santa Claus.

St. Nicholas celebrates his birthday at december 6th, and each year he will come to the Netherlands with a huge ship packed with presents for all the children. Of course he isn't able to distribute all the presents among the children, so he has got the help of hordes of 'zwarte pieten', originally chimney sweepers as present were lowered through the chimney, but later for their black appearance they developed into black helpers. Slaves maybe even, in old days. Black Peter carries a sack full of presents and sweets, which he will joyfully throw into groups of children. The sack, however, can also be used to tug away naughty kids to be transported to Spain for penance. Nowadays there is debate on the political correctness of the Sinterklaas festivities. Typical.

Pepernoten, ingredients:
150 g self raising flour
75 g castor sugar (the brown variety, if possible)
90 g butter
2 tbsp milk
3 tsp speculaaskruiden
Officially this is a mixture of cinnamon, nutmeg cloves pimento mace ground ginger and cardamom, but leaving out some of the more exotic spices will not be disastrous. (Personally I think it is)

Preparation:
Mix ingredients into a dough that can be easily managed (add a little more milk if too crumbly, a little more flour if too wet). Form into balls the size of a small marble, Put them on a greased baking tray in the middle of a pre-heated oven (150'C) for about 15-20 minutes.

TIP:
If you keep the pepernoten in a tin together with a piece of bread, they won't get too hard.

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Poffertjes

Poffertjes (fritters) actually are very small pancakes and are served warm with lots of powdered sugar sprinkled on top. Dutch people most often won't make them their selves, but go to Pancake Restaurants that serve them as well, or vendors that specialize in making pofertjes. Poffertjes vendors can often be found at fairs and such events.

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Snert

Green pea soup. Another fine inimitable example of Dutch cuisine. traditionally it is eaten in winter time, when the weather is cold and wet, and one can always find a snert vendor at any skating track, for skating and snert are to the Dutch very compliant.
Snert consists of mashed green peas that has to simmer for considerable time, added to it are bacon and smoked sausage. Some say that the best snert is yesterday's, the soup gets so thick when it cools that it can almost be cut next day. That is one of the reasons it is made in such big quantities.

Ingredients :
2 cups split green peas - 3 quarts of cold water - 1 cup bacon squares - 4 Frankfurters - 800 grams potatoes - 4 table spoons salt - 1 celeriac (the root of a celery plant) - 1 bunch of celery green - 2 leeks (throw away the green parts) - 2 large onions (sliced into rings), to make things yuchy one could also add 1 pig's marrow bone.

Preparation :
Wash the peas, soak them for 12 hours and boil gently in the water they were soaked in for at least two hours. Cook in this liquid the marrow bone and the bacon for at least one hour. Add the sliced potatoes, salt diced celeriac, cut up leeks and celery green and cook until everything is done and the soup is smooth and thick. Add the Frank- furters for the last 10 minutes. The longer the soup simmers the better the taste. Three hours is the usual time in Holland.

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Speculaas (a kind of cookie)

Although speculaas is commonly associated with the Sinterklaas festivities, it can be bought year round, and is eaten as a cookie to go with tea, or even as sandwich covering. A special kind of bearded man-shaped speculaas doll is baked as a present for somebody turning 50. It stands for meeting with 'Abraham' (the arch father). The female version is called a 'Sarah'.

Ingredients:
4 cups flour
1 cup butter
1.5 cups brown sugar
1 teaspoon baking powder
1 teaspoon cinnamon
(the following are added according to preference)
1 pinch cloves
1 pinch nutmeg
1 pinch ginger
1 pinch black pepper
milk
blanched almonds

Preparation:
Preheat the oven to 325 F. Mould all the ingredients, but the almonds should be kept apart. Add the milk until it makes a stiff paste that can be rolled out on a baking tray. Cut roughly into rectangles and carve lines with the tip of a knife. Press the almonds into the dough. bake until light brown.

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Stamppot (Hotch Potch)

A quick, down to earth meal. Usually stamppot consists of mashed potatoes mixed with varying ingredients like carrots and onions (hutspot), raw endive or curly kail. Hotch Potch is served with fried bacon (cubes) and smoked sausage. That the Dutch are obsessed with delta works and 'stealing land from the sea', is illustrated by the habit that they like to dig a hole in the middle of the blob of hotch potch on their plates, and fill it with gravy. Usually this type of meal is eaten during the Winter months. As an example I'll give the recipe for Hutspot:

Ingredients :
1 or 2 slices of lean bacon, 4 large onions, 800 grams potatoes, 800 grams carrots, milk, 4 table spoons fat, butter or margarine, pepper.

Preparation:
Wash the meat, boil in 2 cups of water and salt for about 2 hours. Scrub and mince the carrots. Peel, wash and slice onions and add them to the meat together with peeled and cut potatoes and carrots. Boil until done (about 30 minutes). Remove meat from pan. Mash all the vegetables and add fat, butter or margarine and pepper. If too thick add some milk (but a spoon must stand up in it). Serve with the sliced meat. The lot should be covered with rich, fat gravy. The dish is eaten as a main meal dish.

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Stroopwafels (treacle-wafers)

A test to your fillings, but boy are they nice!

Ingredients:
Dough:
4 cups flour
½ cup sugar
1 cup butter
2 eggs
1 pack of yeast
½ cup of warm water
Syrup:
1.5 cups brown sugar
1 cup butter
1 teaspoon cinnamon
6 tablespoons dark corn syrup

Preparation:
Dissolve the yeast in warm water. Mould butter and flour into dough, while adding sugar, eggs and yeast mixture. Set to rest for 30-60 minutes. Roll the dough into balls and bake them in pizelle iron (wafer iron). In the meanwhile make the syrup by boiling all the ingredients in a sauce pan. Split the wafers in half in pour the hot syrup between the slides. Put the halves back together.

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Taai Taai

This is a kind of ginger-bread. The literal translation of its name would be tough tough, referring to the substance and difficulty to get them down your throat.

Ingredients :
250 grams of honey, 150 grams of syrup (treacle), 1 tablespoon ani seed, two and a quarter deciliter of water, 250 gram patent flour, 500 grams rye flour, 20 grams of cookie herbs, one to one and a half of deciliter buttermilk, 1 table- spoon of fine corn flour, 1 small packet of baking powder and some cooking oil, butter, milk.

Preparation :
Put the honey/treacle/ani seed and water in a pan to the boil whilst stirring. In the meantime mix the patent flour, rye flour and the cookie herbs. Rub the contents in the pan which has been left to cool off first, through a sieve into the mix of the flour and herbs. Mix thoroughly together. Leave the contents in a pan (covered with a cloth) for a least a week in cool place. After a week : Mix the fine corn flour and baking powder and sieve this into the pan containing the week earlier prepared ingredients. Add the buttermilk and thoroughly stir the final mix.

You will now need some kind of mould to pour the mix into to produce the figure- shaped Taai Taai cookies. In The Netherlands these moulds can be bought. They are usually cut into a wooden plank. Each plank containing about 6 figures. Similar moulds would do. Oil the moulds and fill them with (part of) the mix. Remove excess from the mould with a knife to make a clean, flat surface. Empty contents of the mould onto a flat, buttered, baking (oven) tray and brush with some milk. Bake in pre-heated oven of 220 degrees (centigrade) for about 30 minutes to a nice dark golden brown. Let them cool off and keep for at least another week before consuming them.

Tip :
If you are using small moulds, keep about one and a half cm distance between each cookie.

As you will have noticed from the recipe, you will have to start making the Taai Taai two weeks before you plan to eat them !

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Vlaai (Pie)

In fact it should be Limburg vlaai (Limburg pie) as it is mostly associated with the province of Limburg (down the deep south of the Netherlands).

Ingredients:
For the dough : a sweet bread dough (or fine bread dough) baked in a 10 inch (25 cm) round pan or in 4 individual smaller pans, made of 2 cups flour (use your own favorite recipe).

For the filling : any fruit, dried fruit, sugar.

Preparation:
Limburg Pies are thin, flat pieces made of bread dough. They are made in all sizes from 4 to 20 inches (10 to 50 cm) in diameter. For a pie of about 8 inches (20 cm), a dough made of 2 cups of flour will suffice. For preparing dough use recipe for sweet bread dough or fine bread dough adding a little butter or margarine. Knead dough, leave it to rise, roll it out thinly, put it in a greased round pan, cover up and leave to rise to double its size. Prick through the dough with fork or knife if it has risen too high. Cut (for instance) the plums into halves, stone them and put them closely together on the dough with the cut side upwards, or fill the pie with stoned cherries or stewed fruit. Bake pie in hot oven (450 degr. Fahrenheit = 235 degr. Centigrade) for about 30 minutes. Sprinkle fruit with sugar 10 minutes before pie is taken out of the oven, sprinkle once more when pie is done. If stewed fruit is used, mix fruit with sugar before filling pie.

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Zoute haring (salted herring)


Indeed, this is the delicacy that's most identified with the Netherlands. Many tourists are baffled to see Dutch people eat raw salted herring (not to be confused with kippers) by taking it by the tail, tilting their heads backwards and sliding it down their throats. Of course the fish has been cleaned and the head has been removed first (we are not cats). The first catch of the season is always greeted with much enthusiasm, and is called "Hollandse Nieuwe" (Dutch Newest).

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